fifty things i love about newburyport (parts 11-20)
by john ryan gallagher for more than two hundred years lord timothy dexter has been our town’s premier crazy-fxcker. a bit of a neanderthal, dexter moved to newburyport as a young man and began a trade as leather dresser. he married a wealthy widow and convinced her to buy him that big house on high street. for someone without any sort of formal schooling, he had outrageous luck in financial gambles and investments. perhaps someone from the future went back in time and gave him some of these ideas. he dabbled in coal, mollasses, and even traded stray cats, all fruitful endeavors. because of his dumb successes and general stupidity, almost everyone in town hated him - even his family. dexter hated them back, particularly his wife, whom he told people had died. when they reported to him that they had seen her alive, he told them that what they had seen was her ghost. he decorated his yard with peculiar statues, and when he was fifty, he wrote a book A Pickle for the Knowing Ones or Plain Truth in a Homespun Dress. he delivered this gem without any punctuation or spelling corrections. eventually the book became very popular and on a subsequent edition he included an extra page with all the eliminated punctuation. he told readers they could ‘peper and solt it as they plese’. then he faked his own death with intentions of appearing as a ghost, but when his wife didn’t cry at his funeral, he blew his cover and freaked out on her. we’ve spent close to two hundred years honoring this loveable numbnuts and i like that about this town.

i don’t know why hodgies has the largest ice creams in the world, but i always enjoy taking friends from out of town there and conning them into getting a size small. for some reason i like to pronounce the place ‘ho-gees’. it’s always great to take a ride over there, but i’m more a fan of graham’s ice cream on state street. on your way to hodgies is the one of the most difficult mini golf courses in the world. jurassic mini golf in salisbury has been recognized by many publications and television programs for just this. we usually play for money when we go. lately i’ve been having gelato downtown and taking it over to the boardwalk and looking out onto the river/harbor. it’s weird how the view never gets old. i could never get tired of looking out there.
atkinson common is a great place to cause trouble. it has an eerie and seductive air to it at night. there’s a beautiful tower in the middle that’s been closed since i can remember. at one point my friends and i were set to bribe a city official for the key to the tower’s gate, but somehow the plan never materialized. we’re still on the ground looking up, resenting the place and the city for not letting us in. one time my friend tom and i drank two cases of beer in atkinson playing some strange version of frisbee golf that we made up. we were too lazy to learn the real rules. when i was a kid i saw a fellow classmate swim in the man-made pond in the park. we all saw his weird human skin tale when he did this.
old town hill is haunted. a psychic told me so. one time matt and i had a fire up there, and i guess we didn’t extinguish it properly because a friend of ours from the newbury fire department had to go and put it out the next morning. he had to hike up there during a heat wave with a hundred pound water pack on his back. we were in big trouble! we didn’t see any ghosts that night, but our friend was pissed and somehow knew it was us. i can’t tell you how he knew.
port taxi has gotta be responsible for saving thousands of lives. one time they told me i couldn’t bring my dog in the cab, so i lied and said i was blind and that it was a seeing eye dog. i think that was the night i lost my mother’s car and upon waking up the next morning had no idea where it was. that was probably one of the top ten angriest times she’s been with me. when i was in high school i had to take that cab a lot and one night these two bastards got in at the neptunes (they were en route to jake’s) and totally lost their shit and fought one another in the back seat. i was real scared. we’ve put so many of our friends in those things in all forms of inebriation, and the port taxi always smiles and gets them home safe and sound.
high rock is a spot on the salisbury side of the merrimack where you can jump from a high distance into the river. it’s pretty much only accesible by boat, but on low tide you can walk out there from behind cinema 95. i’ve never trekked out that way but everyone says it’s real ‘sketch’. a few summers ago kids were partying on high rock, and they turned on this kid and pushed him into a fire and then surrounded the pit so that the victim couldn’t get out. people party pretty hard around here. be careful if you go.
everyone knows that the best place to sled in town is march’s hill. if you go to the very top of the hill (by the water tower), there’s a chute called ‘chinatown’ that is a sheer drop off down onto the old train bed. you really earn your wings if you can sled chinatown. the traditional section of march’s hill sledding is scary enough as it is. i still get a kick out of going by on snow days and seeing all the kids flying down. we usually go at night now. one time dylan and i went with sam, and she bumped her head and acted like she was concussed. in the summertime march’s used to be a party spot, but the cops caught on real fast.

the summer of 2003 was magnificent because they opened up all the beaches on plum island. it was amazing. girls were going topless, there were enormous parties, and it was like ibiza in massachusetts. let me explain a few things to you real quick if you aren’t from newburyport: this place is home to so many different types of beautiful bird species. i like them. one of these said species is the piping plover. there’s like six actual plovers that live on the reservation at plum island. they close four miles of our beaches year round for these birds. look, i promise you that i’m a tree hugging liberal until the day i die, but i can’t say as though i don’t resent these mf’n birds sometimes. once i was at post 13, and i swear a flock of them flew there just to taunt my friends and me. the moral of the story is that plum island’s beaches rule and that summer of ‘03 ruled, and i’d love to have another one like it. even the weather cooperated that summer.

one of my favorite days of the year is old fashioned sunday. for a few years i’ve been working on a pair of shoes that i’m going to submit to the dirty sneaker contest. i hope i win. i should… these things are nasty. one of the things i like the most about old fashioned sunday is that you get to see people swim in the mall. even if you paid me in the hundreds, and with lobsters and strippers, i still wouldn’t put a toe in that water. i think we might have paid this neighborhood kid named skeletor to swim out to the middle once. the muster takes place here as well on old fashioned sunday and naturally i root for the neps.

one of the things i love about newburyport is that though many things in town have changed, so much has stayed the same. i love hearing the guy say, ‘hahbuh taws, now boardin’. the harbor tour is great. what’s even better is the huge statue the guy has in front of ‘not your average joe’s’. it’s a chainsaw wood carving that is attached to hundreds of pounds of cement so that people don’t steal it again. presumably, the first one was taken and thrown into the river. i had a friend once take a pile of mushrooms and claim they didn’t work. he then proceeded to walk three miles home to his house in the north end from the joppa flats. when he got to the (original) statue, he realized the mushrooms did, in fact, work because the wooden man began talking to him. a few days later when that first statue disappeared and everyone wondered who and why anyone would steal it, my friend quietly said to me, ‘nobody stole that thing. it probably just walked away’. harbor tours replaced the statue, however, someone came along and painted the face black.

click dis to read 1-10: http://bit.ly/18SpfJ (above) photo credit: meg manion silliker thank you for reading! ten more coming next week.